The secret lives of klepto-cats

Imagine finding your neighbour’s glove on your doorstep one morning, then a child’s sock the next. Day after day, new items turn up at your door. This is the reality for a few pet parents of furry felons. Cats who steal items from around their neighbourhood can be a quite humourous topic, but also frustrating at times - and may even be a sign of anxiety in your cat. Let us paws for a moment and discuss! 

Feline kleptomania is a surprisingly well-documented phenomenon - so much so that the behaviour has even earned them a popular nickname: 'klepto-cats'. Cats across the world have been caught red-pawed hoarding socks, stealing jewellery, and smuggling entire baguettes through the cat flap. What prompts them to do this and why are some cats more prone to thieving than others? 

Why do cats steal? 

Scientists are still puzzling over exactly why cats do this, but researchers and animal behaviour consultants have proposed several overlapping explanations for this quirky behaviour - which suggest multiple factors are at play. A fascinating 2024 article¹ in The Guardian explored these theories in depth and here are some of the leading explanations:  

1. The hunting instinct 

Even well-fed domestic cats retain a powerful prey drive. In the wild, a successful hunt results in "prey" being carried back to a safe location. Your cat's brain doesn't always distinguish between a mouse and a fluffy slipper - both get the full predator treatment: stalk, pounce, carry home. 

2. Attention & learned behaviour 

The first time your cat dragged in a sock and you erupted with laughter and fuss, you may have accidentally trained them. "Bring the thing → get the humans excited" is an extremely learnable loop. Researchers suggest ignoring the behaviour rather than reacting. This is the best approach to avoid reinforcing it (but we know this can be hard in the moment!).  

3. Boredom & under-stimulation 

Cats that don't get enough mental or physical stimulation will find their own entertainment. Stealing provides novelty, movement, and the satisfaction of a "successful hunt." An under-stimulated cat is an inventive one. 

4. Desire to remove unwanted scents 

Some researchers suggest cats may steal items, especially worn shoes or clothing, as a way of removing strong or unfamiliar smells from their territory. What looks like theft to us may be a form of feline housekeeping.  

5. Gift-giving to their colony 

Cats sometimes bring objects (or prey) to their human family as gifts, as a sign of affection and group-belonging. If your cat dumps a neighbour's gardening glove at your feet, they may genuinely think they are being helpful. 

6. Compulsive behaviour 

In some cases, especially in oriental breeds with high intelligence, stealing can become compulsive: an almost OCD-like repetition. This is worth mentioning to a vet if the behaviour is excessive or accompanied by other signs of anxiety.

The usual (or is it unusual?) suspects: Breeds most prone to thieving 

While any cat can turn to a life of crime, certain breeds appear in thieving headlines with suspicious regularity. Here are the repeat offenders. 

🐱 Siamese: Highly intelligent, vocal, and deeply attached to their humans. Siamese cats often steal as a way of initiating interaction - they know it gets a reaction, and they crave engagement. 

🐱 Burmese: Playful and people-oriented, Burmese cats are notorious sock thieves. Their retrieval behaviour is almost dog-like - they carry objects back to their owners with evident pride. 

🐱 Bengal: With wild Asian Leopard Cat ancestry, Bengals have a powerful prey drive. They don't just steal, they hoard!  

🐱 Maine Coon: Gentle giants with playful, curious natures. Maine Coons tend to steal large objects such as shoes, scarves, soft toys! 

🐱 British Shorthair: Deceptively reserved in manner, British Shorthairs are quiet but persistent thieves. Their hauls tend to be practical: food wrappers and shiny objects. 

🐱 Ragdoll: Known for following their humans everywhere, Ragdolls often steal as displacement behaviour. They want interaction and carrying an object triggers engagement. Endearingly manipulative.

So, What’s the Right Move? 

While there’s no simple answer, there are some things you can do to optimise your cat’s environment and see if it influences their behaviour. 

1. Enrich their environment 

More play, more puzzle feeders, more vertical space. A stimulated cat is less likely to freelance as a neighbourhood bandit. 

2. Don't reward the behaviour (accidentally) 

If your reaction to the stolen item is laughter and a fuss, you are training them. Try a calm, neutral response - remove the item quietly.  This is recommended by researchers - even any negative attention can reinforce the behaviour. 

3. Set up a "drop zone" 

Some owners place a basket near the cat flap where stolen goods can be deposited. Lean into the chaos and make a returns policy for the neighbourhood. This may include adding to local noticeboards online or speaking with neighbours, in an attempt to reunite the items with their owners. 

4. See a vet if it escalates 

Compulsive stealing, particularly when paired with anxiety, over-grooming, or eating non-food items, warrants a conversation with your vet, veterinary behaviourist or a feline behaviour consultant. 

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Hall of fame: Famous feline thieves 

Some of the real-life cat burglars have even made headlines and won the internet's heart. 

Dusty the Klepto Kitty - San Mateo, California 

Perhaps the most famous thieving cat of all time. Over several years, Dusty the Siamese cat reportedly stole more than 600 items from neighbours including 100 gloves, 73 socks and 8 swimsuits! He became a viral sensation and even has his own Wikipedia page: Dusty the Klepto Kitty - Wikipedia.  

Denis the Cat Burglar - UK 

Denis the Cat Burglar developed a habit of stealing from neighbours' homes and gained media attention on BBC 1’s The One Show, Heart FM, and in local newspapers, and served as a mascot helping raise funds for Homeless Cat Rescue. He also got his own Youtube Channel³. 

Keith the Kleptomaniac 

Keith was a cat that featured in the media in 2021, a black cat from Christchurch, that became notorious for stealing shoes, clothes, underwear, and live eels - among opther things! His owners leave a box of his “treasures” at the front of their home. 

Leao The Bandit 

Leao is a black cat from Upper Hutt who has a mischievous habit of stealing multiple shoes around the Silverstream neighborhood. Adopted at four months old, he’s an otherwise typical cat. except for his adventures, which are documented on his own Facebook page⁴ with videos of his thefts and the items he brings home. 

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References: 

1 . *Sample, I. (2024, July 20). Cat burglars: scientists try to solve mystery of why felines ‘steal’ random objects. The Guardian. Retrieved 3/3/26 at: https://www.theguardian.com/science/article/2024/jul/20/cat-burglars-scientists-try-to-solve-mystery-of-why-felines-steal-random-objects  

3 DenisCatBurglarNewman (2012, May). YouTube Channel available at: https://www.youtube.com/user/DenisCatBurglarNewma 

3 Facebook profile (Leao The Bandit). Facebook. Retrieved on 3/3/26 at: https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=61584747365984 

Training your cat to like their carrier

Overcoming Stress to Ensure Better Vet Care  

With nearly two-thirds (63%) of New Zealand households sharing their home with a pet, cats remain one of our most beloved companions. As cherished members of the family, they deserve the same access to medical care as any other loved one - but getting them to the vet can be easier said than done. One key part of the puzzle? Cat carriers.  

Picture this: your cat starts showing signs that something’s not quite right. You know a vet visit is needed. But before you can even make the appointment, you’re digging through the garage or cupboard to find the carrier. The moment your cat hears it being dragged out, they scatter under the bed - and the battle begins. Sound familiar? 

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What research tells us about vet visits 

Despite our deep bond with these furry family members, our recent NZ Pet Data Report showed that many Kiwi cats (almost a third of owned cats) don’t get the regular veterinary care that could keep them healthy and happy throughout their lives (Companion Animals NZ, 2024). 

Another survey conducted across Australia and New Zealand in 2017 found that 31% of cat owners did not take their cats to the vet annually. The most common reasons for skipping check-ups were anticipated stress for the cat, cost, and a belief that the visit wasn’t necessary (Johnston et al, 2017). 

Stats from United States in 2020 painted an even more concerning picture: nationally representative data indicated that only just over 40% of cat owners reported seeking veterinary care once a year. Meanwhile, 7% of cat owners said they would never seek veterinary care and 28% said they would only do so in emergencies (Bir et al, 2020). 

The hidden health crisis for cats 

Regular veterinary check-ups are crucial for maintaining your cat's health and catching potential issues before they become serious problems. Early detection of conditions like dental disease, kidney problems, or diabetes can significantly improve treatment outcomes and your cat's quality of life. Yet many cat owners only visit the vet when their pet is noticeably unwell, missing vital opportunities for preventive care. 

The reluctance to take cats for regular check-ups often stems from one major barrier: the stress and drama of getting cats into their carriers (Volk et al, 2011). Over two-thirds of cats are brought to the veterinarian in carriers, while a small percentage are held or leashed (Mariti et al, 2016).  

Certain carrier designs, especially those without a detachable top, can make handling difficult, which often prolongs veterinary consultations and heightens the cat’s stress. Because most cats associate their carriers with negative experiences, typically due to rushed trips to the vet when they’re already unwell, this creates a cycle of anxiety for both cat and owner that leads to dreaded vet visits and, ultimately, delayed or avoided care. 

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The solution: carrier training 

The good news is that with patience and the right approach, you can transform your cat's relationship with their carrier from one of fear to one of comfort – or even contentment (Liu, J. (n.d.). One study found that cats who were trained to use their carriers with positive rewards were much less stressed during car rides and vet visits.

These cats showed calmer behaviour - like being more relaxed and willing to eat - and their bodies also showed fewer signs of stress (Pratsch et al., 2018). Your cat's carrier doesn't have to be a source of anxiety – with patience and positive reinforcement, it can become just another comfortable space in your home, making those essential vet visits a breeze for everyone involved. 

Here's how to do it: 

Step 1: Make the carrier part of the home environment  

Don't store the carrier in a cupboard or garage between vet visits. Instead, leave it out in a quiet area of your home with the door open. Place a comfortable blanket or towel inside to make it inviting. This helps your cat become accustomed to the carrier as a normal part of their environment rather than a place to avoid. Using a carrier that is not already associated with negative experiences may be beneficial.

Cat carriers come in various styles, but those with solid bottoms are generally recommended because they provide stability and prevent any accidents during transport. Carriers with tops that open up or lift completely off are also preferred, as they make it much easier to place or remove the cat gently without forcing them through a small door. This design helps reduce stress for both the cat and the owner during handling and veterinary visits. 

Step 2: Create positive associations 

Start feeding your cat near the carrier, gradually moving the food bowl closer over several days. Once they're comfortable eating beside it, try placing their meals (or treats) inside the carrier with the door open. This helps create positive associations with the space. 

Step 3: Make it a cosy retreat 

Encourage your cat to use the carrier as a resting spot by placing treats, toys, or catnip inside. Some cats will naturally start napping in their carrier once they realise it's a safe, comfortable space. Praise and reward your cat whenever they voluntarily enter the carrier. 

Step 4: Practice closing the door 

Once your cat is comfortable spending time in the carrier, practice gently closing the door for just a few seconds while they're inside. Gradually increase the duration, always rewarding calm behaviour with treats and praise. If your cat becomes stressed, take a step back and go more slowly. 

Step 5: Add movement 

When your cat is comfortable being in the closed carrier, try picking it up and carrying it around the house for short distances. Start with just lifting it slightly off the ground, then progress to brief walks around the room. This helps them adjust to the sensation of being transported. 

Step 6: Short car trips 

Begin with very short car journeys that don't end at the vet - perhaps just to the end of the driveway and back. Gradually increase the distance as your cat becomes more comfortable.  

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The long-term benefits 

This training process requires patience - it may take only a few days, but for some cats, it may take weeks or even months for them to become completely comfortable with their carrier. However, the investment pays dividends in reduced stress for both you and your cat, and more importantly, it removes a significant barrier to regular veterinary care. 

A cat that travels calmly is more likely to have a positive experience at the vet clinic, making future visits easier. They'll be less stressed during the examination, which can lead to more accurate assessments of their health and better cooperation with necessary treatments. 

A Good Life for your cat: making regular vet visits the norm 

With a carrier-trained cat, you'll be more likely to schedule those important annual health checks. Regular veterinary visits allow your vet to establish baseline health measurements for your cat and spot subtle changes that might indicate emerging health issues. This proactive approach to pet care can extend your cat's life and improve their overall wellbeing. 

For further information on training cats in carriers see - https://youtu.be/lwZysJfxZBo 

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References:  

Companion Animal New Zealand (2024): CANZ 2024 Pet Data Report. Retrieved from: https://static1.squarespace.com/static/5d1bf13a3f8e880001289eeb/t/67c5362c18b9881a1fec4b5d/1740977787548/CANZ+2024+Pet+Data+Reportcompressed.pdf 

Bir, C., Ortez, M., Widmar, N. J. O., Wolf, C. A., Hansen, C., & Ouedraogo, F. B. (2020). Familiarity and use of veterinary services by US resident dog and cat owners. Animals, 10(3), 483. 

Johnston, L., Szczepanski, J., & McDonagh, P. (2017). Demographics, lifestyle and veterinary care of cats in Australia and New Zealand. Journal of Feline Medicine and Surgery, 19(12), 1199–1205. 

Liu, J. (n.d.). Managing patients with high fear, anxiety, and stress: A guide to effective handling. Fear Free. Retrieved from: https://www.fearfree.com/2024/01/managing-patients-with-high-fear-anxiety-and-stress-a-guide-to-effective-handling/ 

Mariti, C., Bowen, J. E., Campa, S., Grebe, G., Sighieri, C., & Gazzano, A. (2016). Guardians' perceptions of cats' welfare and behavior regarding visiting veterinary clinics. Journal of Applied Animal Welfare Science, 19(4), 375–384. 

Pratsch, L., Mohr, N., Palme, R., Rost, J., Troxler, J., & Arhant, C. (2018). Carrier training cats reduces stress on transport to a veterinary practice. Applied Animal Behaviour Science, 206, 64–74. 

Volk JO, Felsted KE, Thomas JG, Siren CW. 2011. Executive summary of the Bayer veterinary care usage study. J Am Vet Med Assoc. 238(10):1275–1282 

“Scaredy cats” - Understanding anxiety in our feline companions

Cats are often perceived as independent and self-sufficient creatures. However, they are complex animals and can experience significant anxiety, particularly when faced with environmental changes or forced proximity to other cats.  

Understanding the signs of feline anxiety and how to address them is crucial for responsible pet ownership and ensuring your cat's wellbeing. 

Why feline anxiety often goes undetected 

Despite the significant impact anxiety can have on a cat's wellbeing, feline anxiety frequently goes unrecognised by owners for several reasons: 

• Subtle expression: Unlike dogs, cats often display stress in subtle ways that can be easily overlooked or misinterpreted as normal feline behaviour. 

• Natural tendency to hide weakness: As instinctive predators and prey, cats have evolved to mask signs of vulnerability. In the wild, displaying weakness could attract predators or competitors, so cats instinctively conceal discomfort and anxiety. 

• Gradual onset: Anxiety symptoms often develop gradually, making changes in behaviour less noticeable to owners who see their cats daily. 

• Normalisation of stress behaviours: Some owners come to accept certain stress behaviours—such as excessive grooming or hiding—as "just what cats do" rather than recognising them as signs of underlying anxiety. 

• Urban living: Cats living in close proximity to many other cats such as can be the case in an urban/suburban environment may display chronic low-level stress that owners perceive as normal. 

Recognising signs of anxiety in cats 

Anxious cats typically display their distress through several key behaviours: 

• Urine spraying on vertical surfaces 

• Inappropriate toileting outside the litter tray 

• Hiding or reduced social interaction 

• Changes in appetite - eating significantly more or less 

• Repetitive, purposeless behaviours (eg. overgrooming) 

• Aggression towards people or animals - often unprovoked 

• Increased vocalisation (meowing/howling) - often out of character 

• Restlessness or sleep changes - unable to settle or sleeping much more 

• Hypervigilance - constantly alert, jumpy or easily startled 

Beyond these behavioural signs, cats suffering from anxiety are also susceptible to developing stress-related physical illnesses. Feline idiopathic cystitis (FIC) is one example that is particularly common and often requires a combination of veterinary care and behavioural/environmental modifications to treat effectively. 

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Understanding house-soiling 

Although elimination behaviour (the term used for a cat toileting) is a symptom of anxiety, it’s important to understand the underlying causes to be able to diagnose the problem and address it effectively. There are two distinct types of elimination issues, each with different underlying causes: 

1. Inappropriate elimination 

Inappropriate elimination refers to a cat urinating or defecating outside its litter tray in areas not typically associated with toileting behaviour, such as on furniture, carpets, or beds.

This behaviour is usually due to medical issues, environmental discomfort, or anxiety and is not intended as communication. In normal circumstances, cats prefer to eliminate in quiet, secluded locations, on substrates suitable for burying waste. These sites are usually at the periphery of their core living area, away from feeding and resting areas, with some cats preferring separate locations for urination and defecation.  

When a cat stops using its litter tray, there may be a number of potential causes: 

• The location or substrate is no longer desirable or feels unsafe 

• The cat associates the location with feeling painful (e.g., from cystitis or constipation) 

• Physical pain prevents the cat from accessing its normal location (e.g., arthritis) 

• Medical issues have altered the frequency or urgency of elimination 

Treatment approach: 

1. Firstly, address any underlying medical issues (ie consult your veterinarian) 

1. Identify and resolve environmental factors that’s making the normal toileting area undesirable 

1. Clean soiled areas thoroughly (use biological (enzymatic) cleaners)  

1. And if the issue is related to anxiety, talk to your vet about the use of pheromone therapy* (something like Feliway®) making sure its only used near the litter tray—never in inappropriately soiled areas, as this could encourage return to those locations.  

*Pheromone therapy refers to the use of synthetic versions of natural feline facial pheromones, designed to create a sense of safety and familiarity for cats, helping to reduce stress and anxiety-related behaviours like inappropriate toileting. 

2. Marking behaviours: urine spraying and middening** 

Marking behaviours serve a different purpose than elimination – they're chemical (pheromone) communication methods.

When cats spray urine in their core area, they're leaving scent messages to mark the areas where they perceive potential threats.  

**Middening (or territorial defecation) is when a cat purposely defecates outside of their litter box - conveying messages in response to perceived threats or stress. Unlike inappropriate elimination, it is not about toileting needs but about sending a signal. 

Treatment approach: 

1. Identify the likely source of threat or anxiety  

1. Clean marked areas thoroughly with biological cleaners  

1. Apply pheromone therapy (something like Feliway®) in the previously soiled areas (unlike with inappropriate elimination) to increase the cat's sense of security 

1. Consult an accredited animal behaviourist about use behaviour modification including environmental enrichment to reduce anxiety  

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Anxiety Triggered by Other Cats 

In multi-cat households, inter-cat conflict is a prevalent source of stress. Cats are inherently territorial and may perceive other cats as intruders, leading to aggression or avoidance behaviours. Such conflicts can result in chronic stress, manifesting as overgrooming, inappropriate elimination, or withdrawal.

The presence of unfamiliar cats, in the home (or core) territory, including those visible through windows, can also trigger anxiety and subsequent behavioural issues. 

Management Strategies in multi-cat households: 

• Gradual introductions: When introducing a new cat, ensure a slow and controlled process, allowing each cat to acclimate to the other's scent and presence. 

• Resource allocation: Provide multiple resources (e.g., litter boxes, feeding stations, resting areas) to reduce competition and territorial disputes. 

• Environmental enrichment: Incorporate vertical spaces and hiding spots to allow cats to establish their own territories and retreat when needed. 

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Environmental triggers of anxiety 

Cats are highly sensitive to changes in their environment. Alterations such as moving furniture, introducing new household members, or changes in routine can induce stress. Loud noises, unfamiliar scents, and lack of stimulation are additional factors that can contribute to anxiety. 

Management Strategies: 

• Maintain consistency: Keep routines as consistent as possible, including feeding times and play sessions. 

• Introduce changes gradually: When changes are necessary, implement them slowly to allow the cat time to adjust. 

• Provide safe spaces: Ensure your cat has access to quiet, secure areas where they can retreat and feel safe. 

• Use of pheromone therapy: Synthetic pheromones can help create a calming environment, reducing stress-related behaviours. 

Seek professional help 

If your cat is displaying signs of anxiety despite your best efforts, it may be time to consult a professional. Begin with a veterinary check-up to rule out medical causes, then consider working with a CANZ accredited qualified animal behaviourist.  

For information about finding a CANZ Accredited Behaviourist who can provide specialised assistance for your cat's anxiety, please visit the Companion Animals New Zealand website (www.companionanimals.nz)  

Note: This article is for general guidance only. Each cat is unique, and persistent behavioural issues should be addressed with professional support. 

Not just cuddles and carrots - the truth about rabbit care

Rabbits are often cherished as delightful companions, yet their care requirements extend far beyond mere cuddles and carrots. As the third most popular pet in New Zealand, rabbits are in many households but not everyone has a good understanding of their needs in order to have a Good Life. 

Cuddly, cute and relatively small... the perfect pet for young humans right? Well... no, not really.  

There is a common misconception that rabbits make great low-cost pets for children, and this view can quickly lead to poor welfare outcomes for a rabbit. How this came about could be debated, but one argument could be made that across media and pop culture, rabbits are frequently depicted as friendly, docile creatures that make great companions, suitable for children. 

So, what do they actually need to live a Good Life as companion animals? 

Not a ‘starter pet’ 

Rabbits are small, prey animals and are relatively fragile compared with cats or dogs; they require gentle handling and can easily become fearful of being handled if they have bad experiences.  

They are sometimes viewed as easy care ‘starter-pets’ suitable for children. However, some studies have shown that owners who viewed rabbits as ‘starter pets’ often provided inadequate housing and low investment in essential resources like continuous gnawing opportunities, hay, and routine healthcare [1]. This was especially the case where children were the main caregivers. Without better knowledge of what the problems can be for rabbits as pets and what good welfare for rabbits entails - as well as increased public promotion of this information – the stereotype of them as ‘starter-pets’ is likely to continue. 

🏠 Housing and exercise 

Rabbits are burrowing animals. They need a complex environment with space to perform their natural behavioural tendencies such as ‘hopping about’, digging, gnawing and hiding.  

Proper housing is crucial for the welfare of pet rabbits with an environment that allows them to express their natural behaviors. According to the House Rabbit Society, rabbits need a minimum enclosure size of 4-6 times the length of the rabbit stretched out, with ample height to allow them to stand on their hind legs without their ears touching the top of the cage [2].  

Additionally, rabbits should have regular access to a larger area for exercise outside their enclosure. This is supported by a study from the University of Bristol, which found that rabbits with access to larger living spaces showed significantly fewer signs of stress and more natural behaviors compared to those confined to smaller cages [3]. 

Inside or outside?

Deciding whether pet rabbits should live indoors or outdoors depends on various factors related to their welfare, health, and environmental conditions. Consider factors such as weather exposure, predation risk and your ability to monitor their health – as well as your space constraints and how the rabbit’s social interactions would be impacted.  Ensuring your pet rabbit has appropriate housing in winter involves providing a well-insulated and weatherproof shelter.

If housed outdoors, the hutch should be elevated off the ground, equipped with ample bedding such as straw or hay for warmth, and protected from wind, rain, and snow. Adding a cover or tarp can help shield the hutch further from the elements. For indoor rabbits, maintaining a stable, warm temperature away from drafts and providing cozy bedding will keep them comfortable. Additionally, allowing supervised indoor playtime can provide both exercise and warmth during colder months. Regular checks to ensure the rabbit’s water supply doesn’t freeze and providing extra food to meet their increased energy needs are also important for their winter care. 

The choice between indoor and outdoor living should be based on the individual rabbit's needs, the owner's ability to provide a safe and enriching environment, and the local climate and predator risks. 

👐Gentle Handling of Rabbits 

Rabbits that have not been socialised and introduced to handling at an early age (starting at 10–20 days old) may be very nervous. It’s important to move quietly and invite interactions rather than force them on the rabbit. Their fear reaction may include hiding to avoid handling, and escalate to biting and aggression. The rabbit’s behaviour can be reinforced by the way that a person responds to them, leading to further fear and more ‘aggressive’ behaviour. Any rabbit that continually reacts aggressively to attempted handling could be experiencing pain and should be checked by a veterinarian.  

🥬Nutritional Needs for Pet Rabbits 

A balanced diet is essential for the health and longevity of pet rabbits. The primary component of a rabbit's diet should be high-quality hay, which promotes dental health and provides the necessary fiber for proper digestive function. According to the SPCA, hay and grass should make up approximately 85% of a rabbit's diet [4]. The chewing action required to eat hay also helps to wear down rabbits' continuously growing teeth, preventing dental problems. 

Fresh vegetables and leafy greens are another important part of a rabbit's diet, providing essential vitamins and minerals. A variety of vegetables, such as leafy greens, should be offered daily. Pelleted rabbit food can also be included in the diet but should be limited to prevent obesity.  Carrots and fruit should only be provided in small amounts as treats, as rabbits do not naturally eat root vegetables or fruit in the wild.

And of course, access to fresh, clean water at all times is essential for maintaining hydration and supporting digestive health.  Check out SPCA’s page for foods to include and avoid, and there are some great tips here too on the types of food and treats to offer.

🐇🐰Social Needs 

Rabbits are highly social animals, living in family groups in the wild, and not surprisingly in captivity they require the company of one or more other rabbits. Studies of rabbits' motivation for access to social contact showed that this was the same drive as for access to food - suggesting that they value this very highly. [6] 

Under test conditions, rabbits pushed a weighted cat-flap door that was one third their weight to be able to get to another rabbit! The best way to ensure a compatible pair is to keep two littermates together. However, if one is male and the other female (usually the best pairing), it is important to neuter both rabbits before they reach sexual maturity. Unfamiliar rabbits should be introduced to each other gradually, initially with a barrier between them, to ensure they will get on with each other. Lots of food and environmental enrichment will help to keep them occupied when first introduced without the barrier. However as with all social animals, it’s also important to give them space to get away from each other.  

🪀🪜Enrichment  

Rabbits also require appropriate environmental enrichment to maintain their mental health. Providing hiding spots, tunnels, and chew toys can prevent boredom and promote natural behaviours. Including structures for climbing and hiding, can also significantly improve the wellbeing of rabbits by increasing exploratory activities. Ensuring that rabbits have opportunities to interact with their owners and, if compatible, with other rabbits, can further enhance their quality of life. 

🍎Training for rabbits? Hop to it! 

Many people wouldn’t know that you can train rabbits. Rabbits are primarily motivated by treats, particularly sweet ones like fruit (high in sugar, so only a treat!). This makes training easier as they will readily perform tasks for a reward. However, not all rabbits are treat-motivated. For those less interested in food rewards, petting and affection can be alternative motivators. Understanding and leveraging what motivates your rabbit is crucial for successful training. 

Three common training techniques for rabbits [7] are:

• classical conditioning: associating a cue with a reward, such as calling their name when giving a treat.

• clicker training uses a clicker sound to signal correct behaviour, followed by a treat, which helps in teaching more complex tricks.

• luring which involves using a treat to guide the rabbit into performing a desired behaviour, such as spinning or hopping onto a lap. 

For effective training sessions, it's important to keep them short due to rabbits' limited attention spans. Creating a quiet, distraction-free environment and using consistent cues, whether verbal or visual, can enhance learning. Additionally, using high-value treats and gradually phasing them out as the rabbit masters the trick ensures they stay motivated without overindulging. 

Becoming a rabbit guardian means a commitment to understanding their unique needs and providing optimal living conditions year-round.

Owners have the privilege of ensuring the happiness, health, and longevity of their beloved rabbit companions, and in return can foster a vibrant bond with your long-eared friend. 

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In a nutshell: Understanding rabbit care needs 

• Social needs: Rabbits are highly social animals and prefer to live in groups in their natural state. So, it's best for pet rabbits to be kept in a social group, or at least a pair.   

• Dietary Requirements: Rabbits are herbivores with complex digestive systems. A diet rich in hay, fresh greens, and controlled portions of pellets ensures their nutritional balance and digestive health. Scientific studies highlight the significance of fiber-rich foods in preventing gastrointestinal issues, a common concern in rabbit care. 

• Environmental Enrichment: Mental stimulation is crucial for rabbits' happiness and well-being. Enrich their environment with safe chew toys, tunnels, and safe spaces to explore. Research shows that enriched environments reduce stress and promote natural behaviors in rabbits, contributing to their overall health. 

• Socialisation and Training: Rabbits are intelligent and can be trained using positive reinforcement techniques. Evidence based training methods, such as positive reinforcement through clicker training, help foster bonds and teach desired behaviours. Studies emphasise the importance of positive interactions with human carers in building trust and reducing fear in rabbits. 

• Gentle handling: Rabbits not socialised early (10–20 days old) can be nervous. Move quietly and invite interactions instead of forcing them. Fear may lead to hiding, biting, and aggression. Consistent aggressive reactions could indicate pain and should be checked by a vet.

Winter Care Essentials 

• Housing Considerations: Winter poses unique challenges for rabbit care, especially regarding housing. Scientific findings advocate for insulated hutches or indoor enclosures to protect rabbits from cold temperatures and drafts. Providing bedding material like straw or hay offers insulation and comfort. 

• Temperature Regulation: Maintaining a stable temperature is critical during winter. Research highlights the risk of hypothermia and respiratory issues in rabbits exposed to extreme cold. Employing heating solutions, like heat pads or heat lamps, in designated areas of their habitat ensures their comfort and health. 

• Exercise and Activity: Despite the cold, rabbits require regular exercise to prevent obesity and promote circulation. Indoor play areas or supervised outdoor time (weather permitting) facilitate physical activity. Scientific studies emphasise the correlation between exercise and overall wellbeing in rabbits, including mental stimulation and muscle tone. 

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References: 

[1] Skovlund CR, Forkman B, Lund TB, Mistry BG, Nielsen SS and Sandøe P(2023). Perceptions of the rabbit as a low investment ‘starter pet’ lead to negative impacts on its welfare: Results of two Danish surveys. Animal Welfare, 32, e45, 1–13 https://doi.org/10.1017/awf.2023.41  

[2] House Rabbit Society. "Housing Your Rabbit." https://rabbit.org/care/habitat/living-space-how-to-set-it-up/  

[3] 'Run access, hutch size and time-of-day affect welfare-relevant behaviour and faecal corticosterone in pair-housed pet rabbits' by Nicola J. Rooney et. al in Applied Animal Behaviour Science 

[4] https://www.spca.nz/advice-and-welfare/article/what-to-feed-your-rabbits  

[5]Magnus, E. (2005). Behaviour of the pet rabbit: what is normal and why do problems develop?. In practice, 27(10), 531-535. 

[6] Seaman, S. C., Waran, N. K., Mason, G., & D'Eath, R. B. (2008). Animal economics: assessing the motivation of female laboratory rabbits to reach a platform, social contact and food. Animal Behaviour, 75(1), 31-42. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.anbehav.2006.09.031 

[7] How to Train Your Rabbit (bunnylady.com) 

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Why do dogs dig holes in the garden?

Of the many lovable traits our canine companions have, digging big holes in the garden is not likely one of them. But why do some dogs love to dig so much? We look into the underlying reasons why this can become their favourite pastime and what you might be able to do about it. 

Let’s cut to the chase. For dogs, digging is an instinctive behaviour. You might know this already in some way – as we see many companion dogs shovelling dirt with their paws as if they were born to transform our carefully tended gardens into excavation sites. But despite looking natural – we still scratch our head thinking Why? What are they getting from this? 

An instinctive heritage 

The ancestors of our domestic dogs dug to create dens or shelters, or to bury food for later consumption, and those that dug well would have been more likely to breed and survive. These ‘hard-wired’ traits are so ingrained, despite having no obvious function in the modern living situation and many, many years of humans domesticating canines to meet our changing expectations.  

Recent genetic studies suggest that domestication of dogs might have taken place earlier than we originally thought. Early zooarchaeological research found evidence of dog domestication somewhere between 12-15,000 years ago. However, DNA analysis highlights that dogs likely split off from their wolf-ancestry around 130,000 years ago! While this doesn’t mean they were companion animals for all this time, it supports that dogs were alongside humans a lot longer than we originally thought.  

That means thousands of years of dogs digging the Earth. In other words, it is one heck of a legacy of survival strategies passed down through generations! 

However in modern times, these hard-wired traits can cause problems for us. So, what can you do? 

Addressing the root causes of digging 

When dealing with unwanted digging, it’s important to remember that whilst often considered as a nuisance for pet owners, digging is a perfectly natural behaviour for dogs – alongside barking, circling before lying down and other distinctive “doggy” behaviours.  

Consider how well adapted their strong front paws are for digging and shovelling, with some dogs (terrier breeds especially) being ‘purpose-bred’ by humans through history for use in digging foxes/rabbits from their dens/burrows. 

To understand why dogs dig holes in the garden, we need to go back to basics. For a behaviour to be maintained, there must be a rewarding consequence for the animal. It could be that a negative situation perceived by the dog is alleviated through doing the behaviour, or a positive circumstance and feeling is enhanced. It’s important to understand the motivation for the digging behaviour, so that it can be effectively and humanely addressed. 

There are a number of possible reasons or underlying motivations for why dogs start digging and why the behaviour is maintained including: 

• Boredom or Anxiety: Dogs may dig out of boredom or to alleviate anxiety and stress. It's their way of coping with excess energy or pent-up emotions. If you prevent digging without providing an alternative outlet or activity that is effective for reducing negative emotions such as stress or anxiety, you will be making the situation worse for the animal. 

• Comfort-Seeking: Digging can also be a way for dogs to create cool spots in hot weather or warmer places during colder periods. So, if digging is connected with temperature changes – this provides a clue to how the behaviour can be effectively addressed. 

• Instinctive Hunting: Some dogs, driven by their prey drive, may dig to unearth little ground dwelling creatures like rodents or insects, using their keen senses of smell and hearing. If you notice that the dog tends to dig most at certain times of the year or in certain places, such as the roots of trees or fence posts – this may be due to them sensing grubs or rodents under the ground. Of course, the rewarding consequences of digging and locating a tasty food item, or the fun of the hunt – means that the digging behaviour will be maintained. 

• Hoarding Instinct: Dogs may hide prized possessions, like bones, by burying them in holes, a behaviour rooted in their instinct to hoard food. This behaviour has stood the test of time through evolution and had important survival value. Although they don’t need to hoard food to eat when food is scarce, some domestic dogs instinctively hide precious goodies. Redirecting the ‘hiding behaviour’ through positive training to a place that is less damaging to the garden, is one way to reduce the dog’s need to dig a hole to bury special food. 

• Attention-Seeking: If digging earns them attention from their human companions, dogs may continue the behaviour as a means of seeking interaction. There’s nothing more rewarding to a social animal like a dog as their human giving them attention, so if a dog learns this works for them – the unwanted behaviour will be reinforced. If this is the possible motivation driving the behaviour, it’s important to ensure that you don’t become the cause! 

• Escape Behaviour:  In some cases, dogs may dig to escape from fenced areas, especially if they frustrated or stressed by being contained due to being left alone for long periods without proper mental and physical stimulation. If this is the reason for the dog to dig, then it’s important to address the behaviour as a symptom of the dog being in a negative emotional state. Training and use of enrichment to make the environment more interesting and rewarding, are two ways to provide a better life experience for the dog. 

Whilst there are many options for deterring or eliminating digging behaviour, understanding the underlying cause is key to managing it effectively and ensuring that the dog continues to enjoy a Good Life.  

Since digging is a perfectly natural behaviour and many dogs appear to love to dig – owners need to think about how they can provide their dog with a suitable alternative, and/or a managed opportunity for them to enjoy themselves.  

A small sandpit as a designated digging area for your dog, will provide him/her with an outlet for rewarding behaviours such as digging and playing in a controlled environment, whilst also sparing the lawn. Reinforcing digging ONLY in that designated area can be through burying dog treats and toys in the soil/sand and giving the dog positive attention when they are digging only in that area.   

The next time you catch your furry friend excavating your flower beds, remember, it's not just a hole in the ground - it's a glimpse into their instinctive world. 

National Puppy Day: why appropriate socialisation and habituation is so important for future wellbeing

23 March is National Puppy Day! Today we celebrate the unconditional love and affection puppies bring to our lives. But how do we turn our love into meaningful actions to set our puppies up for success?

Most people know that a new puppy will bring a great deal of joy to their new human companions – however, did you know that the socialisation a puppy gets in early puppyhood can establish the behaviour patterns they will have for the rest of their lives?  

What is socialisation? 

The process of ‘socialisation’ includes social aspects such as human handling and socialisation with other dogs and animals. It also includes exposure to various environments, objects, and experiences.

Puppies who only have contact with people and pets in their own household during their first few months are likely to be fearful of unfamiliar people and dogs that they encounter later. The aim of any socialisation effort is that it be done in a positive manner, so the puppy gains knowledge, trust and resilience, giving it the education it needs to lead A Good Life, and to be a good canine companion and societal citizen.   

When should socialisation start? 

Before three weeks of age, puppies’ sight and hearing are developing, so they are wholly reliant on their mothers. Nonetheless, even at this young age, puppies that are handled are calmer at eight weeks (barking less and exploring more) compared to those that are not handled. In an ideal world, puppies should complete their vaccinations and be ready to socialise with other dogs on walks or at well-run puppy classes at around 12-weeks old. However, the need for socialisation needs to be balanced with the need to effectively protect puppies from exposure to diseases whilst they are not fully vaccinated and it’s important to be guided by your vet in this area. 

What we do know is that as puppies become less reliant on their mother, socialisation becomes even more important. The experiences (positive and negative) a puppy has during this period have lifelong effects. The period from about three weeks to 14 weeks of age is when the process of ‘habituation’ can take place most effectively. During this time puppies learn that things they are exposed to at a manageable level are normal and do not pose a threat to them and don’t need to be feared. This means that providing the puppy with a range of positive experiences, enrichment toys, handling and safe interactions with fully-vaccinated dogs will all help set him or her up for a great future. 

Of course, as anyone that has raised a puppy knows, continued contact with humans, other dogs and animals, and varied sights and sounds, is important throughout the juvenile stage of life as well, as all these interactions contribute to the way the dog ultimately behaves as an adult.   

 Benefits of socialisation 

Socialisation is a fundamental component to ensuring a dog can lead A Good Life with its human companions. Research has reported numerous benefits of socialisation, including: 

• Positive lifelong bonds and relationships with humans 

• Increased trainability 

• Openness to new places, people, and animals 

• Capacity to cope with stress, like sounds and separation 

• Reduced negative adult behaviours, like fearfulness and aggression 

• Increased positive adult behaviours, like friendliness and the ability to learn tasks  

Considerations  

It is important that the interactions and experiences provided during the socialisation period are appropriate for the age and breed of the dog. For instance, one study reported that exposure to loud noises early in life (particularly not in a controlled manner) resulted in fearful responses to fireworks, gunshots, and thunder later in adulthood.  

If socialisation is aimed at introducing other animals, some breeds innately react differently than others. For example, herding breeds naturally ‘work’ livestock.  

Interestingly, research suggests that more varied stimuli, including some instances of mild stress, will result in the dog being more resilient in adulthood. One study showed lifelong benefits of very short instances of removal from their nest in very early life.  

However, it is important that socialisation is ultimately a positive experience for puppies, so stressors should be just a tiny portion of the socialisation experience. A final consideration is puppy classes. A review of various studies yielded a mixed result; while such classes serve to provide socialisation opportunities for some animals (like those that receive no other exposure to dogs), it’s important that the experience is a positive one for your pup, and it’s likely that they should just be one part of the wider spectrum of puppy experiences in early life.  

 Seeking advice 

Most of us have a reasonable understanding of the people, animals and experiences to which we want to socialise our puppies, but the way to accomplish this exposure in an effective and positive way can be daunting.  

It is best to seek advice and assistance from someone who is accredited for their skillset. You can find accredited professionals on our Companion Animals NZ website page here. Given the importance of your puppy’s early life on their future psychological and emotional wellbeing, as well as yours, seeking advice from a professional trainer at the puppy stage is well worth the investment.  

References:  

1. Gazzano A, Mariti C, Notari L, Sighieri C, McBride EA. 2008. Effects of early gentling and early environment on emotional development of puppies. Applied Animal Behaviour Science. 110(3-4):294-304. 

1. Battaglia CL. 2009. Periods of early development and the effects of stimulation and social experiences in the canine. Journal of Veterinary Behavior. 4(5):203-210. 

1. Miklósi Á. 2014. Dog behaviour, evolution, and cognition. oUp Oxford. 

1. Howell TJ, King T, Bennett PC. 2015. Puppy parties and beyond: The role of early age socialization practices on adult dog behavior. Veterinary Medicine: Research and Reports, 6:143-153. 

The science of dog training: three key building blocks

Our beloved dogs hold a special place in our hearts, with around a third of New Zealand households welcoming these faithful companions into their homes. However, ensuring that our canine friends become valued members of society requires more than just affection; it involves understanding their needs and behaviors to promote responsible ownership and training.  

Here we explore three building blocks for effective and humane dog training, shedding light on how owners can cultivate strong bonds and positive behaviors in their canine companions. But first, let’s step back in time to look at the history of our bond with dogs. 

History of "man's best friend”  

The human-animal bond is considered to be over 12 thousand years old and was likely to be originally based on a mutually beneficial relationship. The dog was one of the first animals to be domesticated – transitioning from being tolerated as a scavenger around the early human settlements to being valued as a human companion, in a relatively short time. The domestic dog (Canis familiaris), one of 38 species in the canine family (Canidae), shares behavioral tendencies with its relatives such as wolves, coyotes, and foxes.  

Yet despite selective breeding for various traits and the length of time we’ve had with them as companions, dogs retain many behaviors common among canines. Behavioral problems often stem from a lack of understanding of normal dog behavior and the variability among breeds and individuals. In many areas, we as humans are falling short in terms of meeting their welfare needs. 

Effective training is one area where there is much room for improvement. Even with the correct use of positive reinforcement methods (often called reward–based training), there are often problems, such as: with the timing of the reward, the clarity of the signals and other factors that can cause problems for the dog in making the correct associations. This can sometimes cause a breakdown in training success - which can be frustrating for both dog and human.  

Sadly, this often leads to inappropriate use of aversive training and handling techniques and even the use of inhumane methods to force the animal to perform (or not) the behaviour.  

A way to overcome this is for dog owners is to understand more about how animals learn most effectively, how they are motivated and how they are different from us.  

1. Understanding Canine Ethology (the science of animal behaviour):  

Dogs are dogs, people are people. It seems a simple statement, but it is very important to understand that what matters to them is different to what matters to us.  

Dogs have evolved from ancestors who were predators, social pack animals and with senses far superior to humans. Making the time to understand them and the way they perceive the world, can not only help us to train in a more canine-centred way but also to appreciate the amazing animals that they are. 

Dogs, though descended from wolves, have been unintentionally bred for a more juvenile appearance, known as paedomorphosis, affecting their communication abilities compared to wolves. This altered physical appearance can affect dogs' communication abilities compared to wolves, with breeds like brachycephalic dogs experiencing limitations in facial expressions. As social beings, dogs thrive in modified pack systems, relying on effective communication for social interactions, underscoring their enduring bond with humans. Despite this bond, issues like relinquishment to shelters due to perceived behavioral problems highlight the need for better understanding and management of canine behaviour, emphasising the importance of education and support from professionals in the field. 

In short, we need to apply science to practice when looking after our canine friends. 

2. Intentional modification of behaviour (AKA “training”) 

Dog training can be defined as the ‘intentional modification of the frequency and/or intensity of specific behavioural responses’. This may sound like a mouthful, but it is crucial to know this isn’t about learning commands – it is about reinforcing a particular desired response to a signal in a consistent and timely manner. This is key to your dog making a good connection between the signal or cue you use and the behavioural response you want. 

Dogs learn through making associations between their actions or inactions and the consequence these actions have for them. Successful and humane training relies upon the trainer having a good understanding of the application of learning theory, dog behaviour and a clear understanding of the goals and the limitations of the training approach being used.  

Reinforcers - from theory to practice: 

• Types of Reinforcers: Reinforcers can be positive, such as treats or praise, or negative, like the release of pressure on a leash (not to be confused with punishment techniques), and are effective in shaping desired behavior. Choosing the reinforcer to use will need to take into account the individual character of each dog, since some will be food motivated, but others prefer to work for toys or attention. 

• Secondary Positive Reinforcement: Techniques like clicker training utilise secondary positive reinforcement, conditioning dogs to associate a specific signal with a reward, facilitating training even at a distance. 

• Reinforcement Schedules: There are also different types of reinforcement schedules that can be used to keep your dog motivated. Once the dog has learned the association between a cue/signal because he/she has been rewarded after every correct response using a continuous reinforcement schedule –some trainers will switch to a more variable schedule so that the dog maintains his or her motivation to perform the response, or even get better at it. The differential reinforcement (DR) schedule is where the dog is given different valued rewards that reflect the quality of their performance of the response. For example, the dog only gets rewarded for above-average responses, getting better rewards for better responses. 

 Punishment-based methods, like loud noises or shouts should be avoided. These may temporarily stop unwanted behavior but can lead to fear and anxiety in dogs. Responsible guardians should prioritise reward-based or positive training methods, emphasising the need for humane and ethical treatment in achieving successful behavior modification in dogs. Developing good timing, whatever method you use, is key to reward the response you want consistently and immediately.  

3. Asking for help 

Finally, it is absolutely fine to ask for help when you need it. Asking for help when you need dog training is not only acceptable but highly encouraged for several reasons. Firstly, every dog is unique, with its own personality, temperament, and learning style, making it challenging for novice trainers to navigate training complexities effectively.  

Seeking guidance from experienced professionals ensures that training approaches are tailored to your dog's individual needs, maximizing effectiveness and minimizing frustration for both you and your pet. Additionally, professional trainers possess a wealth of knowledge in canine behavior and training techniques, offering valuable insights and strategies to address specific issues or challenges you may encounter during the training process.  

Moreover, seeking help demonstrates responsible pet ownership, prioritising your dog's well-being and development by investing in proper training and socialisation.  

You can get expert help from one of the Companion Animals New Zealand Accredited Animal Trainers and Animal Behaviourists who only use humane training methods that are based on an understanding of the way animals learn. Follow the link below for more information about who you can approach in your area.   

More about responsible pet ownership 

In New Zealand, regulations outlined in the Dog Control Act 1996 establish legal obligations for dog owners, emphasising care, control, and registration. Companion Animals New Zealand advocates for microchipping and registration, promoting initiatives like the New Zealand Companion Animal Register to enhance pet safety and reunification in case of emergencies or straying. 

Tolerance for our pets by others in our community requires that they be trained and contained so that they do not become a public problem. Being a good animal citizen is essential, and since the dog doesn’t know the rules, it’s up to the responsible owner to ensure that they provide their dog with the correct socialisation and good training to ensure they are an asset rather than a liability.